
Ever since I made the mistake of looking up the composition of dust, I consider it an icky four-letter word. I had assumed dust was just really fine dirt. Like super ground up rock particles. Yeah, no.
People who study dust—
Let me pause right here and say that I am extremely grateful for such researchers and doubly glad that I am not one of them.
—have found that dust is made of an overwhelming cocktail that includes shed human skin, animal dander, insect parts, food particles, fibers from textiles, soil from outside, soot, particles from combustion in gas and propane appliances—and here we get to the really disturbing stuff—heavy metals, microplastics, endocrine disrupting phthalates, flame retardants, synthetic fragrance compounds, highly fluorinated compounds (the PFAs and PFAs, aka “forever” chemicals), and phenols. This isn’t dust from obscure places. These chemicals, which are increasingly linked to a swath of maladies from infertility to diabetes to neurological issues to cancer, are in 100% of dust samples analyzed in a nationwide U.S. study over 16 years.
Stay with me here. I’m not done convincing you dust is bad.
What could be worse than dust? Dust mites
As if that list isn’t bad enough, then comes the knowledge that where you have dust, you have dust mites. Dust mites, which are a type of arachnid (think spider cousin), are something I really don’t like to think about, especially not in the context of their residence in my house. As disgusting as dust is, it is actually the mites that pose the greater problem to people with allergies or asthma. Dust mites, or to be more specific, the parts and poop of dust mites, are a more common trigger of allergies and asthma than the dust itself. I know you didn’t want to know this, but we’ll be brave and face it together.
With this knowledge, I have now bumped dust, and its mite-y companions, up near the top of my list of concerning contaminants in my house. They have joined VOCs (volatile organic compounds), or airborne contaminants, in my cleaning prioritization. (Learn more about VOCs and their hazards in my article, “When Good Smells Are Bad Signs”.) The reason these two rank near the top of my list of concerns is not because they pose the most danger, micron for micron. Viruses, bacteria, and fungi (so-called “germs”) can do more harm if we compare the threat of equal amounts, but because dust/dust mites and VOCs are far more ubiquitous, voluminous, pervasive, and seemingly innocuous.
Where dust and dust mites are the most concentrated
The biggest concentration of dust and dust mites is in our carpets, our bedding, and our fabric upholstered furniture. And who can blame them? It’s cozy, it’s protected, and bedding contains lots and lots of shed skin particles, their favorite snack.
The problem is, these exact places are where people like to spend a lot of their time, too.
If your kids are anything like mine were, they spend a whole lot of time in full body contact with the floors, and when it comes to bedding, it is the very young and the infirmed who spend the most time in them as well. What does this add up to? The most vulnerable among us are the most exposed to the highest concentration of dust and dust mites.
22 ways to reduce and eliminate dust and dust mites
- Wash sheets weekly with hot water and dry in a hot dryer. As you might imagine, with the 8-ish hours we are spending between the sheets each day, they collect a tremendous amount of shed skin cells, otherwise known as dust mite food. This is why it is essential to launder sheets and other bedding that is in direct skin contact weekly, and pillowcases possibly twice a week. Purchase sheets with a thread count of 300 or higher so they can withstand the frequent washing. Use a soap or detergent that does not leave residues such as fabric softeners on the fabrics, which can contribute to dust. Fluff pillows, comforters, and other bedding in the dryer weekly and give a full wash seasonally.
- Wipe down all surfaces with a damp, absorbent cloth once or twice a week. There is no need to use any chemical dusting spray which adds VOCs to the air and residues to the surfaces. A damp cloth is sufficient to pick up dust and not leave any residues behind.
- Vacuum once or twice a week using a vacuum with a HEPA filter. Invest in a high-quality vacuum. Read reviews because expensive does not necessarily equal effective. A good vacuum saves money in the long run because it lasts longer and does a better job, which protects your health. Consider the attachments in your purchasing decision too as they can help clean furniture, lamp shades, pet beds, window AC units, baseboards and crown moldings.
- Mop hard floors once or twice a week with a damp microfiber mop. Use a mophead that is detachable and washable so that you remove all the debris you pick up each week. Also use a clean-rinsing floor cleaner that does not add VOCs to the air or residues to the floor.
- Place floor mats outside and inside every door. Wiping shoes twice before entering the house is one way to catch debris before it gets tracked indoors. Vacuum or wash these mats often.
- Use washable throw rugs wherever possible and wash regularly. Take advantage of the availability of rugs that are easily washed in a washer.
- Have indoor house shoes, and don’t wear your outside shoes inside. I am a constant shoe wearer even indoors, and this is one habit I have come to realize the wisdom of. Having indoor shoes helps keep outdoor debris from being tracked through your house.
- Wash filters on your vacuum, stove hood, and other appliances that air passes through. Filters need to be cleaned regularly to be effective. Dr. Bronner’s Sal Suds and hot water is what I use.
- Install air filters with a MERV 13 or higher rating on your HVAC system (check your system’s capability). Regularly changing your HVAC filters reduces strain on your system and produces better filtration. I know there is a vast range of cost of HVAC filters, but this is one spot that is worth the extra cost. Consider purchasing in bulk to reduce the price.
- When the Air Quality Index (AQI) in your area registers over 100 (or over 50 for sensitive individuals), keep your windows closed. Most weather apps include a daily AQI reading. It is not a perfect system, but it is a good indicator on what the particulate level is in your area.
- Use ventilation fans in the kitchen and the bathroom. When actively cooking, showering, or using the bathroom, turn on the available vents and open windows if possible. This will help capture any food or combustion particles emitted during cooking, and will help reduce humidity levels in the bathrooms.
- Use an effective air purifier in bedrooms or other high-occupancy spaces. An air purifier is an electric appliance that trap pollutants and operate independently, as opposed to an air filter which attaches to an HVAC system. These are especially needed if you can’t open windows, or if the outdoor air quality is worse than indoors due to smoke, pollen, or other contaminants. There are many air purifiers on the market with a range of quality, so do your research. Identify one appropriate for the size and use situation. Keep up with the filter maintenance.
- Declutter surfaces. Having less stuff out means fewer places for dust to hide and less stuff to dust around. Dusting will seem like less of a chore.
- Reduce the number of stuffed animals, and wash or at least fluff them with the no-heat dryer cycle regularly. I know this can be a tough one for kiddos. My own kiddos have definitely sworn that all 43 stuffed animals are beloved and meaningful. However, plush toys hold on to a lot of dust and then get cuddled and nuzzled offering prime exposure to dust and mites.
- Fluff curtains and throw pillows on the no-heat setting on the dryer. It is amazing how much dust curtains and pillows gather. Just running them through the air fluff cycle in the dryer will pull a tremendous amount of dust out. If they can withstand washing, then do so, and if they can take a little heat, that will help, too.
- Keep the humidity inside your home below 50%. Dust mites thrive in high-humidity environments. HVAC systems often dehumidify when they are running, but you can also look into a specific dehumidifier to bring down the moisture levels, especially if you live in an area of high humidity.
- Install allergy covers on mattresses and pillows. These have come a long way recently. This does not mean encasing your mattresses in crinkly plastic. There are soft but effective coverings that keep dust and mites out of mattresses and pillows and are easily washable.
- Wash and brush pets regularly. Furry friends deposit a lot of debris in our house not only from their own shedding, but also in the dirt that they carry in their fur and drop on carpets and furnishings.
- Wash pet beds regularly. Keeping pets clean is not very effective if their beds are still harboring lots of dirt, hair, and debris. Purchase beds that can be easily washed, and wash them regularly.
- Exfoliate. This may sound like a funny house-cleaning tip, but it was pointed out to me in Taryn Maria’s dusting video and makes perfect sense. If dust is made up partly of sluffed-off skin cells, then if we reduce the skin we’re sluffing-off, we’ll reduce the dust. Therefore, exfoliate ashy skin in the shower and stop the dust at its source. A GIY Sugar Scrub either with a coconut oil base (if you need extra moisturizing) or a simple soap base is a great way to do this.
- When purchasing new flooring, consider hard surface. I know this is a big, long-term consideration, and of course super pricey. But if you are at a point of re-flooring your house, it is easier to keep dust off hard surfaces rather than carpeting.
- When purchasing new furniture, consider leather or other less fuzzy coverings. As with flooring, I know this isn’t something you can run out and do every day. However, if you happen to be looking for new furniture, and especially if you have allergy or asthma considerations, look for easier to clean surfaces. Also, opt out of flame-retardant coatings, which produce many of the hazardous chemicals that have been found in dust.
How residues contribute to dust
One of my biggest peeves with conventional cleaners is that most are designed to leave residues on surfaces. Whether it’s fabric softeners on laundry or shine on furniture or scent on counters, all of these are residues that are sitting on the surfaces after we have supposedly cleaned them. The purpose of these residues are to bring you, the consumer, instant gratification and joy. They do not add to the cleanliness of the surface, but they supposedly make you feel better.
You know what makes me feel better when I clean? Knowing that the surfaces are indeed getting clean and free of any substance on their surface.
Of the many problems with residues, the relevant one to the topic of dust is that residues grab hold of other particles and can even become particles themselves. This keeps dust around and creates more dust.
This is why it is super important to avoid products that leave residues. It is one of the primary reasons I recommend Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Magic Soap and Sal Suds. They are clean rinsing, have no ingredients designed to remain on surfaces, meaning they do not leave residues.
As you evaluate the cleaning products you use around your house, think beyond the immediate usage, and choose ones that leave less residue behind on surfaces and are better for you, your loved ones, and the planet.
While this list of 22 may seem like a lot, choose just a few to implement first and you’ll notice a difference. I hope these tips help you stop dust at its source and clean up what is left.
Further reading
- Sal Suds Dilution Cheat Sheet
- Dilutions Cheat Sheet for Dr. Bronner’s Liquid Castile Soap
- 13 Essential Green Cleaning Ingredients
- Cleaning Upholstery with Dr. Bronner’s
Sal Suds cleaner shows >60% biodegradation after 28 days per ISO 14593.
I have heard not to mix the Castile soap with vinegar as it cancels each other out due to the vinegar being acidic.
Hi Jessica- You are absolutely correct! I cover this elsewhere on my blog, but thanks for commenting about that on this post. The acidity of the vinegar causes Castile Soap, an alkali, to unsaponify or turn into a goopy mess. However, when vinegar is added to the fabric softener compartment of the washing machine, the vinegar is dispensed during the rinse cycle, after the soap has been rinsed out of the fabrics. There’s no mixing of the two in this process.
I have read that vinegar should not be used in the washer because it can ruin your washer
Refer to this article and section on washing machines
https://www.consumerreports.org/home-garden/cleaning/things-you-should-never-clean-with-vinegar-distilled-white-vinegar-a3336471803/?itm_source=parsely-api
I understand Borax can help kill dust mites, could that be used instead of vinegar?
Hi Gretchen- Thanks for your comment. While I have a very high regard for Consume Reports, the situation referenced in their article with vinegar melting rubber hoses will not be what you find when using the super diluted 1 cup of vinegar in the rinse water for fabric softening. I also noticed that the manufacturer’s own care instructions for Speed Queen washers repeatedly say to use vinegar for regular maintenance of the machine. If you want to avoid vinegar, use the Sal Suds – you really don’t need the vinegar as a fabric softener as the Sal Suds is so clean rinsing on its own. As I mentioned in the article, its the hot water and Castile Soap or Sal Suds that are cleaning the fabrics, so there’s no need to add borax.
Hi! I’m wondering if you could advise me on using the castile soap in a carpet washer? My cat seems to be quite sensitive to dust mites, and I’m hoping that this might alleviate her issues some.
Also, I’m only recently learning about castile soaps, and I want to express my appreciation for how approachable you make this stuff. I admit, I’m a little overwhelmed by the extra steps and new things I have to take into account by switching from the more aggressive ready-to-go chemical cleaners I’m used to, but I think once I’ve got the information laid out in front of me and some experience under my belt that overwhelm will clear up. Thank you!
Hi Az- Welcome to the Dr. Bronner’s family! It can be overwhelming when making the switch from conventional products, and I’m always happy to help. Use 1/2 Tbsp. Castile Soap in your carpet cleaner and I recommend taking a look at my full article on using both Castile Soap and Sal Suds, our household cleaner, in a carpet cleaner here: https://www.lisabronner.com/cleaning-carpets-with-sal-suds/.
Can I use half Sal Suds and half castile soap for cleaning? I’m not crazy for the smell of Sal Suds and I can’t use essential oils (allergic). I love the smell of the lavender castile soap, but Sal Suds does a better job at cleaning. Thank you for any advice.
Hi Kerstin – The short answer is yes, you can combine the Castile and the Sal Suds with no reaction, but to look into your larger situation, both the Sal Suds and the Castile are scented with essential oils, except for the Unscented Pure-Castile soap.
Love your sals suds. any discounts available I’d love to buy a gallon buy its alittle pricey for my budget. Thanks
Hi Kathy- When you sign up for my newsletter at the bottom of this page, you’ll receive an email for 15% off your purchase on the Dr. Bronner’s webstore. Taking advantage of sales offered by retailers can also defray the cost. Sal Suds is 2-3x more concentrated that conventional cleaners – a little goes a long way. I detail some of that in this article, https://bit.ly/GreenCleaningSavings. My Sal Suds Usage Cheat Sheet has all the many uses and dilutions for you too: https://bit.ly/SalSudsDilutions
Hi Lisa, so grateful for your blog and amazing advice! I’m wondering if the Baby Castile soap is also effective for washing sheets? I know it has double the olive oil as the scented soaps, so just want to make sure it will have the same effect. Thanks 🙂
Hi Amanda- Yes, the Unscented Castile works well for bedding. If you have hard water, add 1 cup vinegar (1/2 cup in an HE machine) to the rinse water via the fabric softener compartment.
I was introduced to your soaps Dec ’22 when I retired and started a fun job at a spa. Love your products. At the spa we have copious amounts of laundry and massage oil is on everything. I was wondering if your products would help remove the oils from the sheets so they don’t get that “rancid” smell after being washed and dried with hot water? I look forward to hearing what you have to say about this and looking forward to using your Castile soap in other ways.
Hi Terri – Well then, welcome! I’m so glad you have found Dr. Bronner’s! For massage oils on sheets, I recommend our Sal Suds Biodegradable Cleaner, which is outstanding at grabbing grime. I would dilute it in half with water in a spray bottle and then spray the oil spots on the sheets. Then soak the sheets for 20 minutes or so in hot water before a full laundering.
What about hanging the linens on the clothesline to dry? Will that also be effective?
Hi Joanne – Line dried linens are lovely and have such a wonderful fresh air feel! However, line drying would not particularly impact dust mites, but if you’ve already washed the linens with the Castile soap to take care of them, then hanging them on the line is a great way to get them dry.
Hi – Even better is to was your face before bed with a combo of the docs peppermint and tea tree soaps. Have improved tremendously since doing this, keeps the little buggers off you!
Dust mites dye in 130+ degrees. Almost all my bedding is 100% cotton with high thread count as that feels best on my skin and lasts a long time. I have chanced all of my bedding the last 20+ years and nothing has shrunk in a noticible manner, even homemade quilts that family members have made. My allergies, at one point were uncontrollable and it was worth taking the chance. My relatives to prewash fabrics before sewing though, and I do not buy bedding with fancy detailed trimmings. Same for towels.
I buy 100% cotton bedding. However, washing instructions say to use cold water and then dry on delicate cycle. So, I’m not sure I can get rid of dust mites in my bedding. If you have any suggestions, they would be much appreciated! Margo
Hi Margo- Manufacturers know their products best, so stick with their laundering recommendation. The Castile Soap is doing the heavy lifting here. You’ll find it to be effective even without added heat.
I spoke to you Grandfather some years back when he had the number on the labels.I agree with his thoughts and teachings and feel fortunate to have connected!!Bless you all and keep the faith!!🥰
Will making a spray with the castile kill the dust mites on my furniture & carpet?
What would the dilution rate or recipe be for that?
I also have to keep in mind my dogs, so many essential oils like tea tree, eucalyptus and lemon are toxic to them. Lavender is supposed to be okay.
I have a diagnosed allergy to the dust mites, so this is a serious concern… not an icky factor.
Hi KH- Since dust mites are miniscule and can hide deep in the pile of carpets and upholstery, you would have to be sure to saturate the materials in order to reach them. The challenge then would be getting the moisture back out before it mildewed. The best option for this would be a carpet cleaner with an upholstery hose, which you can rent from grocery stores. The soap does work fine in these machines – make a solution of ½ Tbsp. Castile in 2 cups of water for the cleaning compartment. One of my sons also has dust and dust mite allergies. You likely have a list of recommendations, but the ones I find most helpful are to vacuum all carpets and upholstery regularly using a HEPA filter on the vacuum, use hypoallergenic covers on pillows, and wash bedding regularly in hot water with the Castile Soap. Ideally, hard floors are better at keeping dust at bay, but that of course is not an easily feasible change.
The biggest exposure to dust mites are beds, they live in mattresses and their fecal matter is so tiny it can blow through most bedding when you lie down.
My allergist reccomended getting an allergy (with membrane) mattress encasing with a zipper to completely encase my mattress and a second for my boxspring. (not just a toper). It has made a huge difference to my health, and I also don’t have to worry about bed bugs either, since it’s easy to vacuum with no edges for bugs to hide in, and they would be very easy to spot on the white. Good luck. My allergist reccommended the “classic” encasing (which has a membrane – it is breathable but will keep out even fecal matter) from National Allergy Supply: https://www.natlallergy.com/-116.html (I do not work for the company or have any affiliation). Wishing you good health.
I bought Sal Suds Concentrated, confused
do I dilute it before adding to HE large washer?
I so what to what ratio?
JOY
Hi Joy- No need to dilute. Use 1 to 1 1/2 Tbsp. as you would a conventional detergent. The water in the wash cycle does the diluting for you. Check out my blog post on laundry here, https://www.lisabronner.com/green-laundry-care-with-dr-bronners-video/. Also on that post is a downloadable cheat sheet with the many uses and dilutions for Sal Suds.
We see a LOT of dust in the cleaning industry, love this recipe to kill the mites!
Hello Lisa,
Is there a way to print your cheat sheets?
Thank you.
Hi Cathy- Yes! Cheat sheets are on the right-hand side of the main dilutions blog post. Here’s the Castile Cheat Sheet post: https://www.lisabronner.com/dilutions-cheat-sheet-for-dr-bronners-castile-soap/. And for Sal Suds: https://www.lisabronner.com/sal-suds-dilution-cheat-sheet/.
Hello,
1- Is apple cider vinager ok for the rinse cycle? (I’m not a fan of the smell)
2- I used to put cytric acid diluted with drops of lavander oil for the rinse cycle, is it ok to maintain the cytric acid or do you think that’s not as effective as vinager with dr bronners?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Susana- I have not used Apple Cider Vinegar for this. I figure that its acidity would serve the same purpose as white vinegar as far as counteracting the minerals in the water and softening the fabric. The only concern is whether the color of ACV might discolor light fabrics. When using vinegar, I have found that once the fabrics are dry, the smell dissipates. You can also scent white vinegar with essential oils.
Do I need the vinegar if I have soft water?
Hi Cynthia- Castile soap interacts with minerals in hard water, causing heavier fabrics and towels to lose absorbency over time. Vinegar counteracts that reaction, keeping fabrics soft and absorbent. If you have don’t have hard water, you can do without.
We have a small stackable washer and dryer we live in an apartment. How much of your soap do we use in the washing machine? Thank you.
Hi William- I know stackable washers can be as small as less than 2 cubic feet of washing capacity. If that is the case with yours, use about 3 Tbsp. Castile, or 1 Tbsp. Sal Suds.
Hi Lisa,
I have heard using soap instead of surfactant in washing machine can cause the machine to breakdown .
Have you heard of this or have any information or research around this topic?
We have recently switched to Dr Bronners.for body and face wash and pending this, hopefully looking to move our laundry to your castile soap as well.
Thanks!
Hi Lakshmy – Great to hear you’re giving our soaps a try! Soap is a surfactant, so there’s not a difference on that front. My guess is that someone is trying to make the case that detergents are better than soaps. Both soaps and detergents are surfactants, which means they break the surface tension of water, a key part of cleaning. There isn’t a reason soaps would harm a washing machine. My guess is that perhaps that was a marketing pitch.
If you are using the peppermint Castile liquid soap as an all purpose liquid hand soap, should you dilute it?
Hi Debra- Use 3-4 drops directly on hands, or it works great in a foaming pump dispenser diluted at a ratio of 1 part soap to 3 parts water.
Hi! The washing machines in my building use hard water and do not have a fabric softener cup. Should I add the vinegar together with the Castile soap or just use less Castile soap?
Hi Natalie- When mixed together, vinegar causes Castile Soap to unsaponify and turn into a goopy mix. Based on what I’ve read and comments from a few readers, I’ve heard adding vinegar (instead of fabric softener) to a Downy ball works when there’s no fabric softener compartment. If you give it a try, let me know how it goes!
We have hard water, too. I’ve been adding Borax to the wash cycle to soften water; is that okay?
Hi Natalie- There’s no interaction between Borax and Castile Soap. I choose not to use Borax because it’s a skin irritant and any left of fabrics could be problematic.
If I don’t have hard water, is it necessary to add vinegar to the rinse cycle?
Hi Megan- When used in hard water conditions, Castile Soap can cause fabrics to lose softness and absorbency. Vinegar counteracts this. If you don’t experience that, you can skip the vinegar rinse.
Hi! Im slowly but surely transitioning to nothing but natural ingrediants & Dr Bronner’s. What do you recommend for the mattresses. I keep mattress covers on them, but you know, those dust mites are persistent & micro particles of ick still get threw & into the mattress. As well as lint & even sweat, dispite the water proof mattress cover. Thanks to you & your family for these wonderful products.
Hi Christine- For surface cleaning a mattress, I use one of my All-Purpose Sprays – either 1 Tbsp of Sal Suds in a quart of water or 1/4 cup of Castile. Spray the mattress lightly and wipe with a damp cloth. Allow to air dry fully. The key is to be sure not to have moisture soak into the mattress where it might not dry and may mold. Another option is to spray the damp cloth with the a bit of the All-Purpose Spray and then wipe the mattress. Other readers have suggested steaming the mattress with a garment steamer, as heat is effective on dust mites, but this isn’t something I’ve tried personally.
Hi Lisa, is using 1/2 cup Castile soap along with 5 cups water, washing and baking soda effective laundry detergent?
Hi Kyra – Sorry for my delay here. If all that is going in to one load, yes that’s a good amount of castile. You could even do with a little less Castile. Using both washing soda and baking soda might be unnecessary, since they both do the same thing. Washing soda is stronger than baking soda and might wear your clothes down faster. Unless you’re washing really grungy loads, you might just want to go with the baking soda.
Hi Lisa,
Would Castille soap be effective for lice? I have never actually had lice nor have my kids but they’re about to go off to school and I’d like to do some preventative research!
Hi Amy- Lice is one of the nastiest four-letter words in my house. Some people have found that washing hair with Tea Tree Castile soap and using a very small amount of coconut oil in the hair can keep lice at bay.
Hi thank you for this recipe. But what about for everyday laundry like clothes? I’ve seen recipes where it’s a cup of Castile soap dissolved in a gallon of water with soap. Would that be ok for baby clothes ?
Hi Daisy- Castile Soap works great on baby (and grown-up!) clothing. Use 1/2 cup Castile Soap with 1 cup vinegar added to the rinse cycle. The vinegar keeps fabrics soft and absorbent. For extra whitening/brightening add 1/2 cup baking soda in with the Castile Soap. Halve these amounts in an HE machine. For more, here’s my blog post on laundry: https://www.lisabronner.com/green-laundry-care-with-dr-bronners-video/
I am going to try this on our bedding! Thanks so much.
What about the mites that could be in our carpets (we rent – otherwise I wouldn’t have any carpet!) how do we eliminate them there? We do not own a carpet cleaning machine and can’r rent one (at least for the time being) should I spray a solution on my carpet and then vacuum?
Thanks so much for your posts – we have been using your soaps for several years and I am trying to transition to using them to clean the rest of our house!
Hi Erica- Thorough, frequent vacuuming is the best option for potential mites in your carpet. I don’t advise spraying the carpet with a soap solution and then vacuuming. The amount that you would have to spray the carpet would likely be way too much moisture for a vacuum cleaner to handle. It would likely damage it.